Pt 15 Oklahoma Bound: dusty trails through modern tales
The air was thick with dust, poverty, & lingering sense of uncertainty and doom. Perhaps it was a karmic vow from troubled lands taken from their original stewards? We have steeped into the heart.....
On the road again, fueled by my morning London Fog tea and the thrill of empty tanks, we were headed to Oklahoma for some business meetings. So far, time’s been on our side, and we’re somehow way ahead of schedule and there is not an ounce of complaint here. Our next planned stop was a mere two hours and a bit “Google time" away, with an overnight stay at the River Oaks Golf Club in Edmund Oklahoma. Look at me, sounding like we're bunking at the Ritz, but alas, it’s just their parking lot—although it’s the whole parking lot, just for us. No noisy neighbors, no elevators, and definitely no bellboys trying to gracefully and yet swiftly, grab the luggage while oozing small talk in hopes of a good tip. Nope, I don’t miss that at all. I’ll take the open road’s luxury version any day!
Need to catch up?
As I charted out our route on Google, I spotted a gem along the way: the Museum of the Great Plains in Lawton. You see, back in high school, I was strangely fascinated by the Dust Bowl after reading the book The Grapes of Wrath authored by John Steinbeck; a swirling catastrophe that swept across the Great Plains. Oklahoma was right in the middle of it all earning its nickname, "The Dust Bowl State."
The Great Plains of the 1860s was a dramatic scene, a dichotomy of booming agriculture against a backdrop of relentless nature. The Homestead Act encouraged families from far and wide to flock here, with dreams of boundless bountiful farmland dancing in their heads. Vast fields emerged, with cattle grazing, and land slowly stripped of its natural prairie grasses to make way for crops, foreshadowing the challenges that lay ahead.
The destruction of natural prairie grasses, nature's own armor against the ever-present winds, gradually disrupted the ecosystem’s delicate balance. With no protective cover, the beautiful, fertile soil was left exposed, slowly being carried away by relentless gusts. Over time, enormous clouds of dust darkened the skies for days, and drifting sand, dirt and dust blanketed farms and buildings like winter snow.
By the the late 1920s the land, stripped bare, could no longer support the homesteaders' dreams. Drought, blizzards, tornadoes, and even earthquakes took its toll, and slowly but surely, hope itself drifted away—just like the precious topsoil.
By the 1930’s the relentless dirty swirling winds dried up farmlands and with it, any remaining hope. In those days, the air was thick with poverty, lingering sense of uncertainty and doom. Fields lay barren, the earth parched, cracked, wide open revealing the demise of generations of hard-working families; their lives uprooted by forces far beyond control. Perhaps it was a karmic vow from troubled lands taken from their original stewards?
As we crossed into Oklahoma, the fields around us painted a different story. The land stretched endlessly, alive with fertile topsoil as far as the eye could see; fields reaching toward the horizon, mile after mile of rich farmland. We drove along Interstate 44 East, heading toward the Museum of the Great Plains in Lawton, our first stop in this new state. After miles of rural landscapes and tiny towns dotting the route, Lawton offered a glimpse of what Oklahoma has to offer.
The land surrounding Lawton, was originally part of Native American territories, primarily belonging to the Comanche, Kiowa, and Apache tribes. In the late 1800s, after years of bloody conflict and forced relocation, the U.S. government confined these tribes to reservation lands in southwestern Oklahoma. By the turn of the century, however, federal policy shifted, reducing reservation lands and encouraging settlement by non-Native Americans.
In 1901, the U.S. government acquired large portions of reservation lands from these tribes through a process marked by intense pressure and negotiation, often under deeply unfair conditions. This acquisition paved the way for what became known as the Kiowa-Comanche-Apache Opening. In a highly publicized event, the federal government offered over 2 million acres to non-Native settlers in a “land lottery,” allowing hopeful settlers a chance to claim parcels of land. By August 1901, Lawton was officially established, full of homesteaders' dreams unbeknownst of the troubles to come.
This marked a profoundly painful chapter for the tribes, who lost much of their land, culture, and autonomy. Today, though the scars of that era remain, Lawton has made efforts to preserve and respect Indigenous heritage through places like the Comanche National Museum and the Museum of the Great Plains. These centers serve as powerful reminders of the strength and resilience of the tribes, the true stewards who continue to call Oklahoma home, honoring their enduring legacy and their role in shaping the land’s identity.
Lawton is known for its rugged natural beauty and proximity to outdoor adventures like the Wichita Mountains, the Wichita Mountains Wildlife Refuge, and Fort Sill National Historic Landmark and Museum. With a little over 90,000 residents, this bustling city offers outdoor enthusiasts hiking trails, scenic views, and the chance to spot buffalo, elk, and longhorn cattle.
Museum of the Great Plains
We finally stretched our legs at the Museum of the Great Plains, which felt like stepping into a time machine. This museum visually journeys back 11,000 years, telling the story of life and people on the plains. There’s a strong focus on Lawton’s history, with maps marking Indigenous territories pre- and post-European contact and land allotments for non-Native settlers. Kids can dig for “artifacts” in an archaeology zone, shop in a vintage general store, or explore the hands-on science, math, and engineering area. In that moment, I wished I was seven again!
Outside, you can wander through a re-created 1830s trading post, complete with fur trade exhibits and costumed interpreters bringing the era to life. This place is wonderful for kids, with almost everything age-appropriate and interactive. As of January 2024, the museum earned its Certified Autism Center™ (CAC) designation, making it more accessible to autistic and sensory-sensitive visitors. Now that’s something worth celebrating! It’s truly a fantastic place for all kids of any age to learn and explore.
With our heads full of history, we got back on the road toward the River Oaks Golf Club. We booked our stay through Harvest Hosts, and with the full membership, we get to stay at golf courses. It’s a nice perk, especially if you’re a fan of a quiet, wide-open space.
We arrived just in time to grab a bite at the Eagle’s Nest Bar and Grill. Now, I’m no golfer, but my husband is, which is why we decided to go for the golf option. What I truly love about these spots, are the restaurants. The Eagle’s Nest had a rustic vibe, with warm wooden tables and a cozy fireplace, perfect for taking the edge off the evening chill. Too cold to sit outside, but I imagined myself enjoying a glass of wine and a grilled chicken salad, overlooking the green, in warmer weather.
With good food in our bellies and the serenity of the golf course around us, we settled in for a peaceful night. Off-season meant we had the place to ourselves, and I couldn’t have asked for a better lullaby than the quiet calm of nature. Now, if we could just get them to turn off the car park lights; thank goodness for black out blinds, just say’n.
Next week, I’ll share what happens when you miss your turn, end up down a road, and Google Maps delivers an EPIC fail! Plus, the story of what went down at our campsite, involving a rescue that required us being yanked out. Oh, the things we have to learn on the road!
Question for you,
As a child were you intrigued with a certain place, time or event and perhaps got to experience later in life? If so, care to share? I would love to hear your story.
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If my adventures and stories are bringing a smile to your face, why not throw a little fuel in my tank to keep the wheels turning —literally! How about a tea to keep the ideas brewing. Even creativity needs a top-up now and then! Your support keeps me inspired, decaffeinated, and rolling down the road. Thanks for being part of the journey!
Thank you for reading I appreciate you!
~Karen