Pt 7 Exploring Tortilla Flats, population 6
Exploring scenic stops, hidden treasures steamboats, along Arizona’s Historic Apache Trail from campgrounds to the sleepy tiny town that attracts thousands of people every day.
Last week, we ventured to Goldfield Ghost Town in the "early-born rosy-fingered dawn," as Homer would describe it. Although my plan was to tour Highway 88 to Tortilla Flats, there was much to absorb along the way. In this writing we will hit Tortilla Flat and explore some campgrounds and the famous Dolley Steamship along the way.
Need to catch up?
Part 5 Exploring the Unseen Side of Las Vegas: A Journey of Surprises
Part 6 Sunrise Secrets of the Superstition Mountains
Leaving a trail of dust to settle on Goldfield Ghost Town,
I turned onto Highway 88 to chase the last of the morning’s golden glow. As I left civilization behind, I traveled onward toward Tortilla Flat, but the road itself quickly turned into an adventure. According to Google Maps, it’s a mere 30-minute drive from Goldfield, but let me tell you, it will take a couple of hours if you plan on taking in the awe-inspiring landscape Mother Nature carved out for us.
This historic route winds through the rugged landscape, offering breathtaking views around every bend, with scenic pullouts to take in the surrounding vistas. The pavement is well-maintained in this section, making for a smooth drive. After about 20 minutes, I arrived at Canyon Lake Marina. The lake’s deep blue waters are framed by steep canyon walls, creating a dramatic and picturesque setting. The stillness of the lake reflects the early morning sky, and the air is filled with the fresh, clean scent of water and pine. I grabbed a snack and sat on a bench, watching a lone loon enjoying the vastness all to itself.
The Dolly Steamboat, an old-fashioned sternwheeler paddleboat, is docked at the lake, ready for its daily cruises. This charming vessel offers narrated tours that explore the geology, history, and wildlife of the area. It’s a fantastic way to experience the majestic canyons and the secrets they hold, such as being in awe of circling bald eagles, glimpsing desert bighorn sheep, and observing a host of other wildlife. The cruises include a daily one-and-a-half-hour cruise, an astronomy cruise—which I hope to experience the next time I’m back in Arizona—and the Twilight Dinner Cruise, which is spectacular, especially with a desert sunset as the backdrop.
At this moment, in the stillness of the morning, the Dolly lays quiet, swaying ever so gently on the glass-like lake, resting; awaiting its next crew and guests.
I continue my journey toward the
Acacia Recreation Site, taking in the views of the scenic Canyon Lake and the Superstition Mountains as I go. Acacia Park is part of the Tonto National Forest and is a great place for family fun. A Tonto Daily Pass is required for water activities.
Along the route is Canyon Lake Campground. This modest campground offers 9 tent sites, 19 sites with 30 amp power, and 17 sites with 30/50 amp power, all nestled among the natural landscape. Six of these sites are right on the waterfront, providing stunning views of the lake and surrounding cliffs. Campers can enjoy a range of activities, including fishing, swimming, and kayaking. The lake is well-stocked with fish, making it a popular spot for anglers.
(For campground reservations, (480) 288-9233.)
Leaving Canyon Lake, the road becomes more winding and narrower,
hugging the contours of the rugged cliffs and offering even more spectacular views. The drive requires careful attention but rewards you with a sense of adventure and discovery around every curve. The untamed towering cliffs doted with saguaro and other cacti can reach heights of up to 4,500 feet, whilst the Superstition Mountains loom majestically in the background, adding to the dramatic scenery. Along the way, there are several pullouts and scenic overlooks where you can stop and take in the panoramic views of the canyon and lake below. These spots are perfect for capturing photos or simply enjoying the beauty of the desert landscape. For me, I bask in the warming sun, becoming acutely aware of just how small I am against the vastness and silence, only broken by the cries of hawks hunting for their breakfast.
Continuing on, I had to check out the Tortilla Campground. This campground caters to RVs and campers under 30 feet, tents, and everything in between. The paved road in and out consists of a one-way loop, and it is tight, however the paved sites are ample. The campground is part of the Tonto National Forest and adheres to state park rules, allowing no more than 14-day reservations within a 30-day period. The park offers sewage hookups, water, and electricity at some sites. There is nothing finer than waking up to a view overlooking the lake—such a treat.
The site is open for winter only, from October to March. Campers are rewarded awaking up to a scenic backdrop of rugged bluffs, saguaro cacti, and desert skies. This is Mother Nature’s playground, offering boating, fishing, hiking, rock climbing, and scenic driving throughout the surrounding Tonto National Forest.
(Reservations can be arranged for a select number of sites on Recreation.gov or by calling (877) 444-6777. $20/night, Camp host collects campground fees with handheld card reader (no cash).)
Across from the campground is my destination: Tortilla Flat.
This small community, with a population of just six (yah, you read that right, six) is considered Arizona’s smallest official community and has its own voter precinct. It’s a charming stop with a rich history as a stagecoach stop.
A blink of the eye in comparison to Goldfield Ghost Town, The main street (and the only street) of Tortilla Flat features a saloon, general store, mail room and small museum. For 120 years, this stagecoach stop has been serving up good food and drink to its patrons.
The saloon, with its saddle bar stools, is a fun throwback to the western days. The walls are adorned with dollar bills from all over the world left by visitors, making it a popular spot for a meal or a drink—well, I’m pretty sure it’s the only place. The menu features hearty Western fare, including burgers, chili, and barbecue. Be sure to try the frosty prickly pear lemonade, as this is the only place in all of Arizona to experience this. And, oh my it is a worthy experience indeed.
What is a prickly pear? Glad you asked.
Opuntia, commonly called the prickly pear cactus, is characterized by its flat, rounded pads, which are technically modified stems. In the spring and early summer, prickly pears cacti grow a green bulb and produce vibrant flowers.These blossoms are usually yellow, but can also be red, orange, or pink. Following the flowering period, the bulb develops into a fruit, commonly known as "tunas." These sweet and sticky frui are typically oval-shaped, about 2-5 inches long, and come in various colors, including red, purple, yellow, and green. The purple are the sweetest.
The nutritionist side of me, must let you know this fruit has a tremendous nutrient profile, rich in vitamins, minerals, and antioxidants. As a result, it has wonderful health benefits that indigenous people have used for centuries for its anti-inflammatory effects, blood sugar regulation, and digestive properties.
Once you have fueled up with food (as there is no gas station) and rehydrated, explore the Tortilla Flat General Store, which offers a range of souvenirs, local crafts, and snacks. The store has a rustic Old West charm that adds to the experience. Find something you want to send home or to surprise someone with? Have it shipped through the post office located in the mercantile shop. Who wouldn't love getting a gift from a 120-year-old little stagecoach town?
Then mosey on over to the Tortilla Flat Museum for a glimpse into the area's history, including its origins as a stagecoach stop and its role in the construction of the Roosevelt Dam. The museum features historical photographs, artifacts, and exhibits, including a replica of the original schoolhouse. Be sure to sign the guest book.
Outside, there are some fun photo ops, including quirky toilet seats and the saloon’s unique restrooms. Before you go, you must experience the only place you can get the prickly pear gelato in the ice cream shop. After all, it does have health benefits. Take a load off and take in the surrounding beauty, and imagine actually passing through here over a century ago by horse, donkey or stage coach.
Getting here once again before the trickle of tourists was such a treat. It was much like Goldfield—silent and beautiful. I watched a roadrunner looking for some prey, its swift movements a reminder of the desert's vibrant life. One of the things I love about Arizona is the throwback to childhood. I grew up watching the Bugs Bunny Road Runner Hour, spending endless hours watching the Coyote trying to outwit the Road Runner. Who knew that one day I would actually witness a real roadrunner in a real desert landscape. Could I have somehow manifested this?
Arriving early, the soft morning light cast long shadows across the rugged terrain, highlighting the saguaro cacti and the rich, earthy tones of the desert. The air was cool and crisp, carrying the faint scent of the Creosote Bush. This tranquil moment reminded me of my first adventure here, exploring the stark beauty and rich history of Arizona’s landscapes. My very first outing led me to this very spot, where I stood in awe of the vast canyons and felt the warmth of the desert sun on my skin.
The only downside of coming this early in the morning is the inability to have one last prickly pear ice cream before I leave Arizona to explore other states. The moment is bittersweet; it was one of my first outings when I first moved here, and now it’s my last before venturing on. The memory of that first taste of prickly pear ice cream, enjoyed under the blazing Arizona sun, will forever be etched in my mind. As I prepare to leave, the landscape around me—its silent beauty and the memories it holds—fills me with a deep sense of nostalgia and gratitude for the time I've spent here.
At the very tip of the town for now is a sign that says road closed. And this is also where wonderment rich with adventure awaits. In fact from Tortilla Flat onward, lays a 24.5-mile part of the Apache Trail worth exploration. Although I could not embark on the rest of the journey. I can share with you next week what wonderful treasures lay upon this switchback narrow road built to carry the materials for the Rosevelt Damn in the early 1900’s. Stay tuned for next weeks harrowing knuckle ride full of the most beautiful scenery the Sonoran Desert as to offer.
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Thank you for reading
~Karen